Diwali is a festival I particularly don’t like celebrating. The endless media hype about spending, playing dress-up, or attending parties with family and friends brings up multiple emotions, from sombreness to disquiet as I don’t have my own children or any family beyond my ninety-year-old father in Delhi. Feeling the need to escape, I decided to head to Goa. However, the goddess Lakshmi seemed to intervene, urging me to stay home and meet her. Out of guilt, I decided to extend the holiday to the following week instead.
Airbnb popped up as I was online searching for my perfect destination near the beach, just a few minutes away from where I would stay. I found a quaint-looking house in red and emailed the owner. Ninoschka replied promptly and said the beach was three minutes away, so I booked it. I was unsure of what to expect—perhaps a tiny room with a toilet for the price it was being offered. She was clearly upset about what was happening in Goa—the endless construction and destruction of the natural environment.
A few days before my arrival, her father, Dr. Gustavo Pinto, reached out and started sharing images of the property. I was pleasantly surprised. In today’s rushed world, who takes the time to personally greet strangers? He warmly said, “Goa is waiting for you,” a simple line that reassured me and I knew I would be okay. How much of our time do we waste on unnecessary words or actions when something simple can suffice . As I made my way to the property from MOPA, I was excited. I was greeted warmly by the family, with garland, coffee and cake. They were Portuguese Roman Catholics who had lived on this land for generations. To me, Goa was synonymous with sex, drugs, hedonistic adventures, or a relaxing beach destination. Meeting a family deeply rooted in local culture and history was a delightful surprise.
The property I stayed at was part of an inheritance from Dr. Gustavo’s mother, Julia Margarida Alacoque Henriqueta Dos Remedios Monteiro e Pinto—a descendant of the aristocratic Monteiro family of Candolim. They once owned vast tracts of land and had donated generously to the village, including its football ground. Staying in a home built on love for the land and steeped in history was humbling. Their home enchanted me with its ornate furniture, azulejo tiles, and a harmonious blend of European and Indian aesthetics, reflecting their dual heritage.
Sensing my fatigue, Dr. Gustavo escorted me to the other wing where I would stay. His pride in the property was evident as he spoke lovingly about the animals on the grounds. Along the way, he introduced me to the family pets—dogs Queenie, Browny, Blacky; cats Mishka, Elsa, Lucas; a rooster named Buster with his three wives; ducks Rocky and Ducky; 13 rabbits, and several birds.My room exceeded all expectations. Sunlit and intricately detailed, it celebrated Portuguese heritage with its blue-and-white ceramic tiles, high ceilings, arched windows, and carved wooden furniture. The exterior featured a vibrant Mediterranean red, with a signature balcao—a covered veranda perfect for lounging. I pinched myself to ensure this dream holiday spot was real.
After a lazy afternoon, Dr. Gustavo invited me for tea and a tour of the property. “Our property is one of the few pockets of greenery left,” he said. “Peacocks visit us every evening. The ocean is just 150 meters away. On a full moon night, after a few pegs of feni, they say you can see Dubai’s skyline across the seas.” Every word proved true. From the rabbit pen to the forest quiet zone and the handmade circular cat room, the property brimmed with stories. It was after all a labour of love of twenty years .
The family’s warmth slowly but surely drew me in, creating an undeniable sense of belonging. Our conversations flowed effortlessly—about Dr. Gustavo’s profound love for the land, his exquisite ceramic sculptures, and the tireless effort required to care for their many animals. Life here was simple, yet it radiated a richness rooted in love and compassion. Despite my fear of dogs, they seemed to sense my unease and kept a respectful distance. Each morning, I was greeted by the tranquil beauty of the surroundings—the gentle rustle of the forest, horses grazing peacefully, and the animals lovingly cared for by the family. This seamless harmony of nature and the beach nearby felt like a true haven.
I walked to the beach daily in the early morning and later afternoons just five minutes away as the host had promised , spending time at shacks, surrounded by a few Russians lounging on deck chairs. As the waves lapped at the shore, I found myself reflecting. Life’s moments, whether joyful or painful, are transient. Everything comes and goes nothing has lasted forever not even us . I did indulge in a feni trail trip at Panjim’s Latin quarters on my second-to-last day, enjoying the local flavours and architecture. Yet, I preferred the quiet of the property to the hustle of tourist hotspots.
Dr. Gustavo’s family left a profound impression on me—their love, resilience, and genuine hospitality stood out. His four daughters—Ninoschka, Sasha, Svetlana, and Raisa—were the heart of the home, embodying both elegance and warmth. The partnership between Dr. Gustavo and his wife, Josefa (affectionately called Bebe), was a beautiful testament to decades of companionship. Old couples have a rhythm all their own—a silent understanding built over years. A simple glance can convey what words cannot. A hand reaches out to button a shirt without being asked. Meals are prepared just the way the other likes, effortlessly. This rhythm is not learned overnight but crafted through a lifetime of shared moments, both big and small.
The daughters surprised me with their simplicity. Each one looked striking enough to be a model, yet their grounded and welcoming nature shone through. They seemed to truly enjoy having strangers in their home, making everyone feel at ease. Their home wasn’t just a property—it was a warm embrace, steeped in history and love. Despite the temptation to sell the land for millions, they chose to preserve it as a part of their heritage. It was more than land; it was their legacy, lovingly safeguarded for future generations.
In his words,“ We are trying to re-create what was there once upon a time ....the Goa we knew and loved. The Goa that is fast disappearing before our eyes. Concretization, I'll planned tourism, changing demography ....it's all taking its toll. Our property is one of the few pockets left in the midst of lush greenery where you wake up to the sounds of birds and squirrels Guests are made to feel part of this big family, partaking of a tea or meals with us. Animals are most welcome and allowed to bring their two-legged owners. Ours is a labour of love ....it's not a business. After all, life is all about relationships, isn't it ?”
I couldn’t agree more and as a token of my gratitude I took the family out for dinner on our last night . We had a traditional goan meal and wine. It was a perfect end to a beautiful vacation with a family. God does have a divine plan I realized!
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